Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Gold and More Gold, Massage and Great Dinner
We left Siem Reip (Angkor Wat) in the morning and flew to Bangkok. We quickly checked into the hotel and departed for the city at noon. We are staying at the new Bangkok Airport about 40 minutes from Bangkok by Taxi. We planned a busy day and it turned out to be very full.
We went first to the Grand Palace. This is a site to be seen. This is where the King of Thailand lived until the 1950’s when they built a new palace. It was never previously open to the public. It is a large number of buildings and temples. The operative word is gold! Everything seems to be covered in gold. They must really have been rich! We hired a guide to take us through the highlights. Until we came to Indo-China we never appreciated the importance of the Emerald Buddha The Buddha statue is small about a yard high carved from one piece of jade. Many wars have been fought over the ownership of it and it has moved from India, to Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. It is the most holy relic to all of these people and it is located at the Grand Palace.
From there we took a Tuk-Tuk to Wat Po where our minds were blown by the reclining Buddha. This Buddha is over 150 feet long in a reclining position (supposedly how the Buddha died) and entirely covered in Gold. It is colossal.
From there we taxied through Bangkok rush hour winding up at Celadon, the highest rated Thai restaurant in Bangkok. It is located at Sukhothai Hotel, a very beautiful place. We timed it to arrive 2 hours early and checked into the SPA for a 90 minute massage each (our last in Thailand, alas) had a drink, then met a friend from the tour for a great dinner, featuring among other things shrimp the size of pork chops! A great finish for our trip. We taxied back to the airport hotel and leave tomorrow for Singapore and home.
Monday, December 11, 2006
Cambodia History, More of Angkor Wat, Shopping and 4-Handed 90 Minute Massage!
Final day at Angkor Wat, left for the Temples at 7am to beat the crowds and the heat, (especially the heat). Walked through and around many Temples, it is unbelievable what was built here around the year 1000.
Went shopping and found a wonderful antique store. We bought Burmese Puppet and an Antique Cow bell. Bought music from group that is near the temple that have lost limbs due to landmines. It is very tragic, you see many people with missing limbs.
Our tour leader spent a lot of time explaining Cambodian History to us. Basically it is constant wars and betrayals. They switched religion constantly according to the whims of the King. They were constantly invaded by the Thais and Vietnamese. Of course the US bombed them (Kissinger’s Secret bombing of Cambodia). Pol Pot, the Cambodian equivalent of Hitler (The Killing Fields in the 3 years he ran the country killed million of Cambodians, including the most of the Royal Family). We didn’t realize that after the Vietnamese defeated the US and unified Vietnam that they then went to war against China. The Vietnamese then went to war against Pol Pot and help defeat him. Of course now, with our two enemies of that time: Vietnam and China, our only decision is when we go to Wal-Mart do we want to buy pajamas made in China or Vietnam. Oh well, so goes the march of history.
In the afternoon, when it was hot, we both had massages. I had a 90 minute massage by two people (called four-handed for obvious reason). It cost $20.00 with tip. Cathy had a Harmony Massage with Hot Rocks, she liked it and is blessed out.
Dinner with the group and then a fly to Bangkok Thailand tomorrow AM.
Sunday, December 10, 2006
Angkor Wat, Cambodia
Angkor Wat Exceeds Expectation
We awoke a 4am to catch a flight out of Laos to Cambodia. The countries are very different. Cambodia, at least, Siem Reap, where Angkor Wat is located, is located in Southern Cambodia. It is incredibly hot. We arrived about 9am and it was already very sticky. I can’t tell you how much water we drank today, but it was a lot! Many bottles. To give an idea of how exhausting it is, we went directly from the plane to Angkor Wat, We could only walk through the complex until 11am because of the heat and humidity, then we went back to the hotel, checked in took a shower, and waited until 3pm to go back again for a few hours. The tropics are exhausting. This has to be one of the most unbelievable places in the world.
The ancient Khmer civilization bounced back and forth between Hindu and Buddhism – today according to our guide the Cambodians practice both. There are many, many temple complexes, some originally Buddhist, some Hindi, some switching over time. You have to drive from one complex to another. Each one has a separate character. You walk through and are amazed at what you are looking at: Angkor Wat (the largest Temple Complex) has amazing frescos and soaring towers. Angkor Thom (our favorite), was originally built directly as a Buddhist Temple with hundreds of carved giant Buddha heads. Ta Prohm looks like something out of a Stephen Spielberg horror movie. Giant trees have over the Temple and the roots of the trees are so strong that over time they can topple walls and whole buildings. There are bats flying everywhere, mosquitoes (hopefully without Malaria or Dengue Fever). When we first approached the Temple complex we thought we heard loud bells everywhere and it turned out to be the sound of the insects in the Jungle. It is very strange.
Above all, you are left with totally drenched clothing, sweaty and sticky like nothing we have ever experienced. It is exhausting to walk up and down among the ruins. On the other hand you are walking in some of the most amazing ruins we have ever seen. It is totally worth it, and worth the trip. More temples tomorrow.
Saturday, December 9, 2006
A Wat, Drinks at The Australian Embassy Club, More Shopping, Broken Sink
After we got up, and took a shower, I somehow toppled the porcelain sink into a million pieces. By the time we returned from dinner tonight it had been all repaired. Amazingly fast work in this bureaucratic Communist Country of Laos.
Observation: Thai and Laotians, are extremely good looking with great smiles and very white teeth.
We went to a beautiful Wat and then went shopping. We bought more scarves and other beautiful textiles. We went to Carroll Cassidy who really is probably the most important person in Vientiane for weaving. She belongs to the Australian Club that is attached to the Australian Embassy and invited us over for drinks to watch the sunset over the Mekong River. It was quite a setting.
Later we went out for Laotion food and took a wild but very slow Tuk-Tuk Ride back to the hotel. Tomorrow we need to get up to leave the hotel at 5:45am for our flight out of Laos and to Cambodia where we will be visiting Angkor Wat.
Friday, December 8, 2006
Elephant Ride in Jungle on to Vientien
Friday up early and out to Elephant Park. Great adventure, the ride was on a very difficult dirt road only accessible via Land Rover. There were water buffalo grazing along the road (it was a one lane dirt road very narrow through the Laos Mountains. When we arrived, we walked to the Nam Kahn River, where a raft was waiting for us to take us to the other side. There was no, dock and it simply ran on to the shore. In the middle of the river our elephant was getting a bath. They take one every day. The Mahout (driver) was standing in the river with a brush, cleansing the elephant. We then followed the elephant to the base camp. The mahout directs the elephant by words (in Laotian) such as: Left, Right, Back-up, stop etc. The Elephant understands and obeys. They placed the platform that you sit in on the elephant back, then the Mahout and I got on the carriage by climbing stairs to a second story the elephant leans against it and then you simply step in. Dennis (our traveling companion) sat on the elephants neck in front of us. Later we switched off and I rode on the elephants neck. We took a ride through the jungle, down to the river and then back to where we started. It took about 45 minutes. Elephants don’t smell (maybe it is the daily bath), the gate gets some getting use to, but then it is ok. If you are sitting on the neck your legs dangle behind the elephants ears and you press down on to the elephants head for balance. You don’t hold on to any part of the elephant it isn’t needed. If the elephant is hungry he simply pulls out some vegetation from the earth and eats it as we move along.
After the ride we returned to Louang Probang and had a 1 ½ hour massage. Then we had lunch, and met the rest of the group to head to the airport. The Hotel book stated “Laos Air has been fixing their maintenance problems:. With that re-assurance we boarded our prop jet and flew south to Vientien. It is very tropical, hot, humid and sticky. We are getting used to always being sticky and wanting a shower (it doesn’t help). We checked into the hotel, had drinks with the group and then all went for a French Dinner. The street signs are all still in French and Laotion and there is a heavy feeling of the French Presence in the Architecture, and food. Back to the hotel, Internet doesn’t work, so we will see when we can post this.
Thursday, December 7, 2006
Up the Mekong River, Dinner with the Prince
We awoke early and went to the daily processional where all of the monks walk silently through the town and are given food by the townsfolk. It is amazing to see the monks in their robes.
We then took a boat ride up the Makong River, passing a new prison, and stopping at a very poor village. The people were very gentle and nice as all of the People of Laos seem to be. We arrived a the Cave of the Hidden Buddhas, once you climb up into the cave there are 1000’s of Buddha statues that have been placed for safe keeping. We returned to Leang Prabang and walked around the city. No shopping today but we did get foot massages.
The Prince of Laos had our group for dinner. We ate in his back yard and they performed dances and singing for us. It was a very magical night. Who would think we would meet a prince?
Tomorrow morning I go for an Elephant ride into the jungle (Cathy will not be doing this). In the late afternoon we fly to Vientien in Southern Laos.
Wednesday, December 6, 2006
Walking, Visiting Wat, Shopping
Up early and breakfast at the hotel. We walked around the whole peninsula that is the city of Leang Prabang. It is only 3 streets wide. On wide side is the Makong River on the other side of the town 3 streets over is the Kahn River. The city sits between them. We went to one of the many Wats (Buddhist Temple) and our guide explained Buddhist principals to us. He used to be a monk and is very articulate.
We then went to a textile demonstration of dying and weaving. The textile studio overlooks the Mekong River and has a spectacular view. Big Lao Lunch and then walked all over the city shopping. We finally rode a Tuk-Tuk (the little 3 wheeled vehicles used for transportation. Anywhere in the city costs $1.00 each.
Went to a Gallery Presentation and then walked through the night market and back. Another Lao dinner and back to the hotel.
Tomorrow a boat ride up the Mekong River.
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