Cathy and Cliff Visit Thailand, Laos, Cambodia Nov - Dec 2006

Gold and More Gold, Massage and Great Dinner

2006-12-12T08:09:00.000-08:00

We left Siem Reip (Angkor Wat) in the morning and flew to Bangkok. We quickly checked into the hotel and departed for the city at noon. We are staying at the new Bangkok Airport about 40 minutes from Bangkok by Taxi. We planned a busy day and it turned out to be very full.

We went first to the Grand Palace. This is a site to be seen. This is where the King of Thailand lived until the 1950’s when they built a new palace. It was never previously open to the public. It is a large number of buildings and temples. The operative word is gold! Everything seems to be covered in gold. They must really have been rich! We hired a guide to take us through the highlights. Until we came to Indo-China we never appreciated the importance of the Emerald Buddha The Buddha statue is small about a yard high carved from one piece of jade. Many wars have been fought over the ownership of it and it has moved from India, to Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam and Thailand. It is the most holy relic to all of these people and it is located at the Grand Palace.

From there we took a Tuk-Tuk to Wat Po where our minds were blown by the reclining Buddha. This Buddha is over 150 feet long in a reclining position (supposedly how the Buddha died) and entirely covered in Gold. It is colossal.

From there we taxied through Bangkok rush hour winding up at Celadon, the highest rated Thai restaurant in Bangkok. It is located at Sukhothai Hotel, a very beautiful place. We timed it to arrive 2 hours early and checked into the SPA for a 90 minute massage each (our last in Thailand, alas) had a drink, then met a friend from the tour for a great dinner, featuring among other things shrimp the size of pork chops! A great finish for our trip. We taxied back to the airport hotel and leave tomorrow for Singapore and home.

Cambodia History, More of Angkor Wat, Shopping and 4-Handed 90 Minute Massage!

2006-12-11T06:16:00.000-08:00

Final day at Angkor Wat, left for the Temples at 7am to beat the crowds and the heat, (especially the heat). Walked through and around many Temples, it is unbelievable what was built here around the year 1000.

Went shopping and found a wonderful antique store. We bought Burmese Puppet and an Antique Cow bell. Bought music from group that is near the temple that have lost limbs due to landmines. It is very tragic, you see many people with missing limbs.

Our tour leader spent a lot of time explaining Cambodian History to us. Basically it is constant wars and betrayals. They switched religion constantly according to the whims of the King. They were constantly invaded by the Thais and Vietnamese. Of course the US bombed them (Kissinger’s Secret bombing of Cambodia). Pol Pot, the Cambodian equivalent of Hitler (The Killing Fields in the 3 years he ran the country killed million of Cambodians, including the most of the Royal Family). We didn’t realize that after the Vietnamese defeated the US and unified Vietnam that they then went to war against China. The Vietnamese then went to war against Pol Pot and help defeat him. Of course now, with our two enemies of that time: Vietnam and China, our only decision is when we go to Wal-Mart do we want to buy pajamas made in China or Vietnam. Oh well, so goes the march of history.

In the afternoon, when it was hot, we both had massages. I had a 90 minute massage by two people (called four-handed for obvious reason). It cost $20.00 with tip. Cathy had a Harmony Massage with Hot Rocks, she liked it and is blessed out.

Dinner with the group and then a fly to Bangkok Thailand tomorrow AM.

Angkor Wat, Cambodia

2006-12-10T06:05:00.000-08:00

Angkor Wat Exceeds Expectation

We awoke a 4am to catch a flight out of Laos to Cambodia. The countries are very different. Cambodia, at least, Siem Reap, where Angkor Wat is located, is located in Southern Cambodia. It is incredibly hot. We arrived about 9am and it was already very sticky. I can’t tell you how much water we drank today, but it was a lot! Many bottles. To give an idea of how exhausting it is, we went directly from the plane to Angkor Wat, We could only walk through the complex until 11am because of the heat and humidity, then we went back to the hotel, checked in took a shower, and waited until 3pm to go back again for a few hours. The tropics are exhausting. This has to be one of the most unbelievable places in the world.

The ancient Khmer civilization bounced back and forth between Hindu and Buddhism – today according to our guide the Cambodians practice both. There are many, many temple complexes, some originally Buddhist, some Hindi, some switching over time. You have to drive from one complex to another. Each one has a separate character. You walk through and are amazed at what you are looking at: Angkor Wat (the largest Temple Complex) has amazing frescos and soaring towers. Angkor Thom (our favorite), was originally built directly as a Buddhist Temple with hundreds of carved giant Buddha heads. Ta Prohm looks like something out of a Stephen Spielberg horror movie. Giant trees have over the Temple and the roots of the trees are so strong that over time they can topple walls and whole buildings. There are bats flying everywhere, mosquitoes (hopefully without Malaria or Dengue Fever). When we first approached the Temple complex we thought we heard loud bells everywhere and it turned out to be the sound of the insects in the Jungle. It is very strange.

Above all, you are left with totally drenched clothing, sweaty and sticky like nothing we have ever experienced. It is exhausting to walk up and down among the ruins. On the other hand you are walking in some of the most amazing ruins we have ever seen. It is totally worth it, and worth the trip. More temples tomorrow.

A Wat, Drinks at The Australian Embassy Club, More Shopping, Broken Sink

2006-12-09T05:59:00.000-08:00

After we got up, and took a shower, I somehow toppled the porcelain sink into a million pieces. By the time we returned from dinner tonight it had been all repaired. Amazingly fast work in this bureaucratic Communist Country of Laos.

Observation: Thai and Laotians, are extremely good looking with great smiles and very white teeth.

We went to a beautiful Wat and then went shopping. We bought more scarves and other beautiful textiles. We went to Carroll Cassidy who really is probably the most important person in Vientiane for weaving. She belongs to the Australian Club that is attached to the Australian Embassy and invited us over for drinks to watch the sunset over the Mekong River. It was quite a setting.

Later we went out for Laotion food and took a wild but very slow Tuk-Tuk Ride back to the hotel. Tomorrow we need to get up to leave the hotel at 5:45am for our flight out of Laos and to Cambodia where we will be visiting Angkor Wat.

Elephant Ride in Jungle on to Vientien

2006-12-08T16:02:00.000-08:00

Friday up early and out to Elephant Park. Great adventure, the ride was on a very difficult dirt road only accessible via Land Rover. There were water buffalo grazing along the road (it was a one lane dirt road very narrow through the Laos Mountains. When we arrived, we walked to the Nam Kahn River, where a raft was waiting for us to take us to the other side. There was no, dock and it simply ran on to the shore. In the middle of the river our elephant was getting a bath. They take one every day. The Mahout (driver) was standing in the river with a brush, cleansing the elephant. We then followed the elephant to the base camp. The mahout directs the elephant by words (in Laotian) such as: Left, Right, Back-up, stop etc. The Elephant understands and obeys. They placed the platform that you sit in on the elephant back, then the Mahout and I got on the carriage by climbing stairs to a second story the elephant leans against it and then you simply step in. Dennis (our traveling companion) sat on the elephants neck in front of us. Later we switched off and I rode on the elephants neck. We took a ride through the jungle, down to the river and then back to where we started. It took about 45 minutes. Elephants don’t smell (maybe it is the daily bath), the gate gets some getting use to, but then it is ok. If you are sitting on the neck your legs dangle behind the elephants ears and you press down on to the elephants head for balance. You don’t hold on to any part of the elephant it isn’t needed. If the elephant is hungry he simply pulls out some vegetation from the earth and eats it as we move along.

After the ride we returned to Louang Probang and had a 1 ½ hour massage. Then we had lunch, and met the rest of the group to head to the airport. The Hotel book stated “Laos Air has been fixing their maintenance problems:. With that re-assurance we boarded our prop jet and flew south to Vientien. It is very tropical, hot, humid and sticky. We are getting used to always being sticky and wanting a shower (it doesn’t help). We checked into the hotel, had drinks with the group and then all went for a French Dinner. The street signs are all still in French and Laotion and there is a heavy feeling of the French Presence in the Architecture, and food. Back to the hotel, Internet doesn’t work, so we will see when we can post this.

Up the Mekong River, Dinner with the Prince

2006-12-07T07:31:00.000-08:00

We awoke early and went to the daily processional where all of the monks walk silently through the town and are given food by the townsfolk. It is amazing to see the monks in their robes.

We then took a boat ride up the Makong River, passing a new prison, and stopping at a very poor village. The people were very gentle and nice as all of the People of Laos seem to be. We arrived a the Cave of the Hidden Buddhas, once you climb up into the cave there are 1000’s of Buddha statues that have been placed for safe keeping. We returned to Leang Prabang and walked around the city. No shopping today but we did get foot massages.

The Prince of Laos had our group for dinner. We ate in his back yard and they performed dances and singing for us. It was a very magical night. Who would think we would meet a prince?

Tomorrow morning I go for an Elephant ride into the jungle (Cathy will not be doing this). In the late afternoon we fly to Vientien in Southern Laos.

Walking, Visiting Wat, Shopping

2006-12-06T16:32:00.000-08:00

Up early and breakfast at the hotel. We walked around the whole peninsula that is the city of Leang Prabang. It is only 3 streets wide. On wide side is the Makong River on the other side of the town 3 streets over is the Kahn River. The city sits between them. We went to one of the many Wats (Buddhist Temple) and our guide explained Buddhist principals to us. He used to be a monk and is very articulate.

We then went to a textile demonstration of dying and weaving. The textile studio overlooks the Mekong River and has a spectacular view. Big Lao Lunch and then walked all over the city shopping. We finally rode a Tuk-Tuk (the little 3 wheeled vehicles used for transportation. Anywhere in the city costs $1.00 each.

Went to a Gallery Presentation and then walked through the night market and back. Another Lao dinner and back to the hotel.

Tomorrow a boat ride up the Mekong River.

From Chaing Mei to Luang Prabang, Laos

2006-12-05T08:30:00.000-08:00

We got up early on our last day in Chaing Mei, Thailand to go to the Doisuthep Wat. The Temple is very high up in the mountains overlooking Chaing Mei. It is a very curvy drive to get up to the Wat. Once you get there you have to climb either 300 steps or take a tram to get the temple. It is ALL GOLD. It is amazing. Bells, monks, visitors, all kinds of religious rights (burning of candles, offering of flowers, ringing of bells, etc.) It was a fitting place to end our visit. We then went back to the hotel, packed and headed out. We went to another very good Thai restaurant, had lots of great food and proceeded to the airport. After we cleared security, we still had time to spend so Cathy and Cliff had a foot massage for 30 minutes. All over Thailand besides regular massages, Oil Massages, Head only massages, there is the king of all massages: Foot Massages. Everyone appears to get them, youngsters, old people, tourists, etc. It is ubiquitous. It is also very enjoyable.

We flew by prop plane to Luang Prabang, Laos the first Communist Country we have ever been in. It is just great, the people are friendly, the city is only 3 streets wide. It sits between two rivers (one is the famous Makong, the other the Khan River). The whole city is very charming, lots of French aspect of when they ruled Indo-China, lots of bikes and motor bikes, few cars. It is like being in a Graham Greene novel, or watching an old movie. We are very charmed. There are lots of shops selling village products, we plan to hit them tomorrow. We went out with the group for dinner. French Rose from Provence costs $18, we had two bottles. Cathy came back to the hotel to sleep, I of course went out and had a 90 minute massage. The picture of the river is from our 2nd floor hotel room (the highest in Luang Prabang). You are looking at the river and the people working in the rice paddies on the other side. Amazing!

Buddha, Silver, Pack and Ship, Another Massage

2006-12-04T15:55:00.000-08:00

Up and buffet at hotel. Drive to Temple and walk around the area. There are many temples that are with in walking distance. Came to the giant temple now partially leveled by earthquake hundreds of years ago. 4 giant gold Buddhas on each side. Saw the famous reclining Buddha. It is gigantic. We stopped and had a monk chat who explained some thoughts about Buddhism. Drove to an amazing museum / store that sells terra cotta, we didn’t buy anything but I am wondering if it is a mistake not to have. The shipping would have been a fortune but they had beautiful things. We went to street famous for stores selling antique silver. We then went out to another big Thai lunch. It was in a teak building that was magnificent. Amazingly it is only 7 years old. Went to an area next to Chaing Mei University where they have artists in residence, living in very old homes. Saw paper cutting and fabric artist. Bought gifts. Got bit by mosquitoes, hopefully not carrying Dengue Fever. Will use DEET all the time now! Back to Hotel to pack items we bought to be sent back to USA. We can’t carry them all! Back to Hotel to pack for Laos tomorrow. Out to dinner. Very expensive, not good. First culinary mistake of trip. Mitigated by fantastic late night 2 hour massage!

Cooking, Eating, Shopping, Massaging

2006-12-03T16:32:00.000-08:00

Up and Breakfast Buffet at Hotel. Drove to Kaohom Cooking School.
It was great, in a beautiful setting. We make a course then we ate a course.
Tom Kha Kai – Chicken Galangal in Coconut Soup
Larb – Chopped Chicken in Spicy Salad
Beef Panang Curry and tofu Curry
Mango with Sticky Rice Coconut Cream
(we never had Sticky Rice in Thai restaurants in LA for dessert – we looking forward to trying it)
The Mangoes in Thailand are unbelievably sweet and great – we eat them daily for breakfast
We observed making of red curry paste and decided we would buy it if we needed it. It takes for ever to finally chop all of the ingredients and then pound them to a paste in a mortar and pestle.
We also learned how to roast Peanuts or Peppers in Salt and why you would do it.
We learned the secret of separating the coconut oil from the coconut milk by heating till it shines. You want the oil separated so it coats the food.
After cooking / eating all of this food we returned to the hotel to head out again to shop. We went to a crafts fair and bought more clothing from P. Rin who was there. We then we driven and dropped off at the huge Sunday Market where we found more stuff to buy! We returned to the hotel with all of our purchases and prepared them for shipping by UPS back to the states. No way we could pack it all and take it with us!
We then went down to the pool and drank lots of wine, had some appetizers and took our first malaria pills in preparation for heading to Laos and into the malaria zone. Hope the pills work! We then went out for a 2 hour massage and returned to the hotel to end the day!

Day 5 Chaing Mei

2006-12-02T16:45:00.000-08:00

Brave hunter from Silverlake, more massages, lunch by the water. Fabulous dinner. Best Thai food yet. Another massage. Another Wat. Our local guide is a fashion plate.

Day 4 Chiang Mei

2006-12-01T16:44:00.003-08:00

We visit a Wat (Buddhist Temple) and mediate before starting off for the day. A very nice way to start. The dead monks are placed in the Giant Golden Bell that Cathy and Courtney are walking around. Dragon Fruit and Mangoes. We went to the country side to see a woman that creates natural dyes for the textiles. The hill people use her dyes to create textiles that sustain the community. 90 minutes message before dinner. 60 minute facial after dinner. They do the facial with natural produce. . At one point they put cold cucumber slices on our faces, Cathy said her skin never was so smooth as when she was done – I agree. More buying opportunties. Glad to help the Thai ecomony.

Shopping and Massages

2006-11-30T16:40:00.000-08:00

Nancy tour leader, eating at an outdoor restaurant by the river. The Internet cafe at the hotel, outside, beautiful location to blog! Had two massages yesterday with Cathy, 45 minute foot massage and after dinner 90 minute massage. So we spent our day shopping, visiting museum eating and getting massages. Not a bad way to spend a day!

Day 2 Ching Mei

2006-11-29T16:59:00.000-08:00

Flew to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. Visited a Wat (Buddhist Temple) from the 14th Century: Wat Phra Singh. Picture of where we are staying. Cliff and Cathy under a banyon tree. We have a massages every day. 2 hour massage costs about $20.00. Chiang Mei is NOT like Bangkok, it is cooler and very user friendly.

Day 1 in Bangkok

2006-11-28T07:31:00.000-08:00

Arived in Bangkok at 7:30am. We went to Jim Thompson house. He is the person who revived the Thai Silk Weaving tradition. He disappeared in the Jungle never to be seen again. Hope we do better! The food is great. Better than an Thai Restaurant in LA. The city is very congested, bad polution, traffic is terrible. We leave tomorrow for nothern Thailand and the city of Chiang Mei.

Thailand

2006-11-23T10:21:00.000-08:00